Mk1 Ford Focus Extended Wheel Studs: Which Size, Where to Buy, and How to Fit Them

ByKenji Alvarez

What extended studs the Mk1 Focus takes

The Mk1 Ford Focus (1998–2004) runs M12 x 1.5 wheel studs. That thread spec is shared across most Fords from the same era — Mondeo, Fiesta, Escort, Puma — which means parts supply is solid and you have real options beyond hunting for something exotic.

The studs worth fitting are the Grayston press-fit type. They drop straight into the same knurled holes as the OEM studs. No drilling. No hub modification.

47mm or 63mm: picking the right length

Grayston make two extended lengths beyond the standard 40mm OEM stud:

  • 47mm (Standard +13mm, WS1215/47): a modest extension. Works well if you’re running a 5–10mm slip-on spacer, or simply want more thread engagement than the originals provide without changing anything else.
  • 63mm (Standard +25mm, WS1215): the popular choice. Gives enough exposed thread for spacers up to around 20mm with safe engagement remaining.

The rule for M12 hardware is a minimum of 12mm thread engagement — one full stud diameter. The 63mm stud keeps you well inside that figure with a 15–20mm spacer installed. Go thicker than 20mm and a hub-centric bolt-on spacer with its own studs is the cleaner solution.

Where to buy in the UK

Grayston is a British brand, so UK suppliers are the natural first call. Four worth knowing:

  • Burton Power — stock both lengths, with the Focus Mk1 named explicitly in the fitment list. Part codes are WS1215 for the 63mm and WS1215/47 for the 47mm.
  • Demon Tweeks — also carry the Grayston range. Worth checking if Burton shows lead time or delivery works out better from your end.
  • Car Builder Solutions — lists the Standard+13 and Standard+25 versions individually, sold per stud. Handy if you only need to replace one or two rather than a full set.
  • MSAR — a smaller specialist with a London showroom. Stocks Ford M12 competition studs and is useful if you prefer to collect in person.

eBay UK turns up bulk listings from various sellers. Check the knurl diameter specification against Grayston’s data before buying from an unknown source — the wrong knurl diameter won’t press in correctly and can spin in the hub under load.

Fitting them

The job isn’t difficult, but a couple of steps catch people out.

Remove the old stud first. With the hub off the car, press it out from behind using a vice or a threaded rod and socket setup. On the car, run a nut down to the hub face and tap from the back. Don’t hammer the bare stud — you’ll peen the end and make the new one harder to seat cleanly.

The new stud goes in through the front. Thread two nuts locked against each other on the end of the stud, or place a thick washer behind a single nut, then wind it in to draw the knurled section into the hub. This pulls the knurl through without damaging the threads. The interference fit between the knurl and hub steel is what holds it — no thread-locking compound needed on that section. A hydraulic press gives a cleaner result if you have access to one.

Once seated, the stud should sit flush or just slightly proud on the back face of the hub. It shouldn’t protrude far enough to contact the bearing or brake hardware behind it.

Nut compatibility: the part people miss

Closed wheel nuts have a finite internal depth. On extended studs, especially the 63mm version, a standard closed nut can bottom out on the stud before it has properly clamped the wheel. That’s dangerous and it won’t always be obvious on a visual check.

You need either open-ended wheel nuts or closed nuts with sufficient internal depth for the extra thread. Grayston’s own M12 x 1.5 closed nut with a 60-degree seat is a common match for the Focus. Both Burton Power and Demon Tweeks sell them alongside the studs. Dry-fit everything on the bench before the car moves under its own power.

Sources


Similar Posts